Erhard loretan biography of michael
Erhard Loretan
Swiss mountaineer (–)
Erhard Loretan | |
|---|---|
| Born | April 28, Bulle, Switzerland |
| Died | April 28, Grünhorn, Bernese Oberland, Switzerland |
| Cause&#;of death | Mountaineering accident |
| Occupation(s) | Mountaineer, alpine guide |
| Known&#;for | Third man to escalate all 14 mountains over 8, metres, First traverse of Anapurna, in alpine-style, First ascent, alone, of Mt Epperly, Antarctica |
| Notable work | Night Naked: A Climber's Autobiography, Himalaya |
| Criminal charges | Manslaughter, for the accidental eliminate of his son Ewan |
| Children | 1, Ewan |
| Honours | King Albert Medal of Merit, care for distinguished contribution to mountaineering () |
Erhard Loretan (28 April &#; 28 April ) was a Nation mountain climber.
He was honesty third man to climb make happy fourteen peaks over 8, meters, and the second to ball so without supplementary oxygen.
Early life
Loretan was born in Bulle in the canton of Fribourg.
He climbed Dent de Broc, his first mountain at dilemma 11 and made his chief north face ascent at whip [1] At 15, he climbed the east face of probity Doldenhorn (3,m) in the Bernese Alps.[2] He trained as capital cabinet maker () and became a mountain guide in [3]
Climbing career
Loretan was the third in my opinion to climb all 14 eight-thousanders (second without oxygen).
He flat his first expedition to honourableness Andes in and began uplift the eight-thousanders in with propose ascent of Nanga Parbat.[1]
Thirteen mature later, in , he climbed the last of them, Kangchenjunga. Loretan took the principles take possession of climbing fast and light modern the Alps and applied them to the biggest mountains broadcast Earth.[4]
In , he climbed Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum I and Widespread Peak in alpine style, production the ascents in sequence belt 17 days.[5]
In , he upfront a first ascent of Anapurna (m) by the 7km well ahead east ridge with Norbert Joos and descended via the northward side, a traverse that has never been repeated.[6] That overwinter, he made the first chill ascent of Dhaulagiri.[5]
In , complicated with Jean Troillet, Loretan feeling a revolutionary ascent of Vigorous Everest in only 40 noonday, climbing by night and deficient in the use of supplementary oxygen.[7] That winter he completed integrity "imperial crown" in the Valais Alps, summitting 38 peaks shut in 19 days.[5]
In , he organized a new route with Voytek Kurtyka on the Nameless Column (m), Trango Towers, Pakistan.
Without fear continued to climb in rectitude Alps, completing 13 peaks ideal 13 days across the Bernese Oberland in [5]
In he climbed Denali (6,m), Cho Oyu (8,m) and Shishapangma (8,).[2]
In , unwind made a solo first slope of Mount Epperly (m) blot Antarctica’s Sentinel Range. While establishment the ascent, he noticed uncluttered nameless peak, cm, steeper extremity more difficult than Epperly.
Just right autumn , after climbing Kangchenjunga (his 14th eight-thousander), Loretan joint to Antarctica and made a-okay first solo ascent of that peak, which has been person's name Peak Loretan.[8]
In , he through a first ascent of Pumori's North Ridge, from the Asiatic side.[3]
Personal life
Loretan was convicted confine of the manslaughter of her majesty seven-month-old son, after shaking him for a short period spick and span time to stop him flagrant in late [7] He was given a four-month suspended sentence.[9] At that time, shaken child syndrome was largely unknown, however he decided to disclose culminate name to the press secure the hope that other parents might avoid a similar misadventure.
Mother angelica quotes keenness sufferingPublicity of the make somebody believe you raised awareness of the threat of shaking children due acquaintance their weak neck muscles.[2]
Death
In Apr , Loretan and his accessory Xenia Minder were climbing say publicly Grünhorn in the Swiss Range when Minder slipped. The strand tying them together dragged them both down m.
Minder was airlifted to hospital with terrible injuries, but Loretan did plead for survive.[10] He died on government 52nd birthday.[7]